Cameroonian Life

In the last two posts I wrote about visiting Cameroon.  Here are some other things I found interesting while I was there:

  • People eat animals that it would never occur to us to eat: bats, cane rats, what-have-you.  We saw a boy standing beside the road, holding up a pangolin by the tail, hoping someone would stop and buy it for their dinner. 
  • The women carry their babies in slings on their backs.  This is often done fashionably, with the sling matching the mother’s dress, possibly even sewn into it.  The babies are used to sitting back and watching the world go by, sometimes getting into mischief.  I enjoyed watching a mother scolding her baby for the pulling the kerchief off her head.
Notice how the baby sling matches the mother’s dress.
  • Cameroonian men pee in public, wherever, whenever.  My husband and I were taking a walk on a very public road and stepped around a military man taking care of the matter.  (I’m not sure what the women do.)
  • You see few white people, but you do see some Chinese.  They are doing business there.  A Chinese-owned hamburger joint opened in Yaoundé while we were there, with a man walking around on stilts to draw attention to the new venture.
  • There are also people whose skin is white but whose features are very African.  These are African albinos.  I have heard that they are more accepted in Cameroon than in some other African countries, where they are regarded with suspicion and superstition.
  • Western-type whites like me tend to get swarmed by people selling things.  We went to an artisan market with my daughter-in-law.  On a previous trip there, she and my son had told the vendors that Americans don’t like to be pressured to buy.  This time around my daughter-in-law reminded the vendors of this dislike.  Okay, fine.  Then the vendors started in relentlessly with, “Come, madame, no buy!  Just look!  Look! No buy!”
  • As I mentioned in my previous post, the people re-use stuff all the time, sometimes in some pretty creative ways.  Want some Cameroonian peanuts?  Go down to the corner, and there you’ll find a guy selling them in old whiskey bottles.
  • We saw very few old people on the streets, and the overall population struck me as young.  But some of the people may be older than they seemed.  I met a man who looked young to me, but he is 45 and has 12 children.
  • A sad fact of Cameroonian life is that it can often be too short.  Sickness is very common, and people often don’t seek medical help until it is too late.  A Cameroonian woman explained that when people there get sick, these are the usual steps:  1.  Ignore being sick.  2.  Try an herb.  3.  See a witch doctor.  (In Cameroonian tradition, all sicknesses are explained as stemming from some problem in your life, like not getting along with your uncle.)  4.  Buy whatever remedy is cheap at the pharmacy.  5.  As a last resort, go to a medical clinic.

    At Kribi on Cameroon’s west coast

 

Business as Usual in Cameroon

We Americans are accustomed to cleanliness, order and privacy, even if we don’t think we’re immaculate, organized and private.  We are also used to buying what we need (or want) and having it readily available, new and in good condition.  We don’t know how much we take all this order and abundance for granted until we go someplace where people just cobble life together and make do.  That’s what struck me about Cameroon: people eat, wear, use, and drive whatever’s available, re-using and re-selling something for as long as it holds together.  (After it no longer holds together, they re-use and re-sell the parts.)  Here are a few snapshots.

If you’re Cameroonian, age-old taxis are how you get around town.  You flag one down on the street and you pile in with the other passengers the driver has picked up along the way. To travel between towns you cram into a boxy little bus, and you let the driver tie your worldly goods on top.  Or if you’re well-to-do enough to own a motor scooter, then that’s what you ride, probably balancing your freight on it, along with your kid and your Uncle Toby.  I saw motor scooters going to church, people on them all dressed up and hanging on.  At a gasoline station I also saw a dad with two little boys and a motor scooter.  One of the little boys looked about three years old.  Obviously, our child safety seat laws don’t apply here. 

To buy furniture or plastic barrels or peanuts or fabric or just about anything, you go out on the street and barter. 

Here is some upholstered furniture for sale.  It’s along the main road through town, on a wooden platform set up to make extra room at the edge of a hill.  These easy chairs will sit there, rain or shine, until they are sold. 

To make a little extra change, people also sell what they grow/harvest/collect/find.  When we were traveling to the beach, we stopped at a toll booth and had people knocking on our windows, offering us bananas, coconuts, kola nuts, and other things.  Our son bought some kola nuts so we could have the experience of tasting them.  They were unbearably bitter.  But the folk wisdom is that they have Viagra-like powers.

A few of the many people selling things at a toll stop

Guy selling shoes in Yaounde

Taxi in foreground, jeans for sale in background. Notice the inflatable “legs” that people are carrying around to hawk the jeans.

And all kind of other things are sold on the streets as well.  Like jeans.  And shoes. And they’re not as cheap as you might think.  My daughter-in-law needed some dress shoes, not really available in stores, so she went out and found a shoe-head guy (see photo) to try to sell her a used pair.  She found some second-hand shoes that would do for what she needed, but she had to barter the guy down from 130 bucks to 20. 

Of course, people sell food on the streets as well.  The photo below shows a lady going out at mid-day to sell lunch to workers.  In her bucket is the lunch, probably a stew of some kind, and on her head are the dishes to serve them in.  And yes, people really do carry things on their heads.  They create a flat surface with a piece of cloth, then stack things on top.  It actually seems to work really well.

A woman selling lunch in Yaoundé

Next post, more about Cameroonian life.